Fact: many iconic fashion moments would not exist without the LGBTQIA community’s creativity and impact. That means no RuPaul’s Drag Race. No rainbow check walking down the Burberry runway. No sparkly structured suits from Lady Gaga. And no cone bra worn by Madonna in 1990, designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Despite a history of oppression and discrimination, the queer community continues to defy gender norms and push fashion into creative, and inclusive, new territory. And today, young designers like Christopher John Rogers, Telfar, Ella Boucht, Nicolas Lecourt Mansio, and more, have all set the stage to continue the conversation.
Although the influence of Queer culture is very strong in fashion, the stories often go untold. To honor some of the many looks and events of LGBTQ+ history, we’re sharing some memorable moments in recent fashion history. From Billy Porter’s incredible red carpet showmanship (hi, Met Gala 2019!) to Karl Lagerfeld’s support for equal marriage opportunity on the runway, and so many in between, we’re revisiting nine fashion moments that stand up and celebrate queer culture. And, although the nine below are iconic, they barely scratch the surface of the level of impact the influential LGBTQ+ community continues to have on the fashion world.
Getty/ Sean Zanni
Chromat Beach Runway Spring/Summer 2022
In collaboration with trans filmmaker Tourmaline, Becca McCharen-Tran, designer and founder of Chromat created their spring/summer 2022 swimwear collection for trans girls who don’t tuck.
Inspired by Marsha P. Johnson, a prominent figure in the 1969 Stonewall Uprising – seen as a major moment for gay rights in the United States – the assortment included swimwear bottoms with more room in the front, shorts, monokins, and matching bikini tops.
McCharen-Tran has been designing clothes since 2010 that don’t focus on the male gaze. The self-identifying Lesbian designer believes that what you wear is your calling card and intends to challenge the societal beliefs about what bodies are deemed desirable.
Getty/Taylor Hill
Dan Levy’s Superhero Outfit At Met Gala 2021
Year after year, the Met Gala is fashion’s biggest night out, and after forfeiting one due to COVID-19, the A-listers went all out this year and made sure to include nods to the history of the gay community and it’s notable trailblazers. One of the most stand-out-looks was worn by Schitt’s Creek‘s very own, Dan Levy. His colourful, puff-sleeved outfit with patterns containing maps was made to resemble that of a gay superhero. Across his chest was an image of two men kissing.
Levy took to Instagram to support American artist and activist David Wojnarovicz, who the outfit had been designed after. “Rather than feed on the message of hate, we wanted to celebrate queer love and visibility – acknowledging how hard artists like Wojnarovicz had to fight, while also presenting the imagery in a way that offered a hopeful message,” he wrote. “Tonight, we’re celebrating the resilience, the love and the joy of the community while honoring a crucial American voice that was taken from us too soon.”
Getty/Taylor Hill
Nikkie De Jager at Met Gala 2021
Famous makeup artist Nikkie de Jager, also known as, NikkiTutorials paid tribute to LGBTQ+ rights icon Marsha P. Johnson – sporting a floral headpiece that resembled the flower crown Johnson was always photographed wearing and a belt that said “Pay it no mind,” – the response Johnson would share with the press when questioned about their gender.
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Billy Porter At Met Gala 2019
In true mic-drop fashion, actor and activist Billy Porter arrived at the Met Gala dressed in a bejeweled catsuit with 10-foot wings, a 24-karat gold headpiece, and custom gold-leaf Giuseppe Zanotti shows. And he did not walk in. No. He was carried onto the red carpet by six shirtless men – a theatrical nod to Ancient Egypt. Inspired by Diana Ross’s Ancient Egypt look, Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra and Bob Mackie’s costumes for Cher, Porter and Blonds’ designers Phillipe Blond and David Blond created this show stopping Sun God ensemble.
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Pierre Davis Debut New York Fashion Week 2019 Show
In 2019, Pierre Davis, designer of No Sesso, became the first trans woman designer to officially show at New York Fashion Week – and cast queer models of color for the runway. Founded in 2015, the Los-Angeles based brand, No Sesso (Italian for “no sex”) creates genderless, innovative silhouettes that can be worn by all genders, body types, sizes, colours, and identities.
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Thom Browne Menswear Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show
Thom Browne’s Spring/Summer 2018 runway show looked to defy the rigid sartorial expectations placed on boys when they are growing up. The collection included pin-striped skirts and button-down dresses with matching tailored blazers.
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Ashish’s Fall/Winter 2017 Show
Fashion designer Ashish Gupta sent models down the fall/winter 2017 runway show in sequin and sparkles where eye-catching graphics read: “Love sees no colour,” and “Why be blue when you can be gay!” The show was to dismantle the societal bias that people have with the community and to encourage acceptance.
Getty/Victor VIRGILE
JW Anderson Fall/Winter 2016 Runway Show
Among one of the first designers to do so, Jonathan Anderson presented his menswear and womenswear collections together at the brands fall/winter 2016 at London Fashion Week – completely dismissing this idea to choose between genders. Not only that, but the collection was live-streamed via the LGBTQ+ dating app, Grindr. Since then, numerous fashion brands have followed suit with partnerships with apps on the runway.
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Chanel Spring/Summer 2013 Runway Show
For the late Karl Lagerfeld’s last couture collection, the iconic designer sent two brides (models Ashleigh Good and Kati Nescher) hand-in-hand down the runway to symbolise his support for gay marriage in France. The show happened when equal marriage opportunity was constantly being talked about and was seen as a controversial political statement at the time. Later that year, France passed a bill allowing same-sex couples to legally marry.
