To put it plainly, last season’s collections were cautiously optimistic. Designers stuck to basic silhouettes and a serene colour palette of soothing powder blues, sage greens, and mellow corals for the most part. The result was like the Calm app in clothing form: a comforting sartorial message of hope amid a (very) turbulent year.
And for the Northern Hemisphere autumn/winter 2021 season, that hope remains a constant with classic, muted shades like soft grays (as chic suiting at Vetements) and frosty pale pinks (as a bejewelled dress at Erdem). But the most startling difference this go-around is the blatant, unadulterated joy in the pieces, which manifested in bolts of brilliant yellows, fiery reds, and fuchsia – colours so fiercely bold and feminine, they could almost be seen as an affront to the sweats we’ve been living in for the past year. Perhaps that’s the point: to remind us of clothes from the Before Times, like a trio of hot pink gowns from Prabal Gurung or a delicate pleated dress by Victoria Beckham in siren red.
Still, we’re not out of the woods just yet. In an act of restraint, designers, including Kim Jones of Fendi, Gabriela Hearst, and Collina Strada, chose to firmly root their collections in reality via monochromatic looks in colours that literally remind us of the ground: rich dark browns that look like soil (Pantone cleverly coined this shade “root beer” brown) and reddish-browns that resemble adobe clay. The delicate balance between practical hues and lively brights can be best summed up by Leatrice Eisemen, the executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, when the colours of 2021 were chosen: “The union of an enduring Ultimate Gray with the vibrant yellow Illuminating expresses a message of positivity supported by fortitude. Practical and rock-solid but at the same time warming and optimistic, this is a color combination that gives us resilience and hope.”
Read on to see the top colours for fall/winter 2021.
Prabal Gurung
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Flaming Fuchsia
It was only fitting that designers chose the hottest shade of pink to craft the hottest designs of their collections, from a shimmery cutout number at Christian Cowan to sweeping, can’t-look-away gowns at Prabal Gurung (pictured).
Richie Davis
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Flaming Fuchsia
Adrienne Raquel
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Flaming Fuchsia
Christian Cowan fall 2021
Y/Project
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Flaming Fuchsia
Claudia Li
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Flaming Fuchsia
Markarian
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Flaming Fuchsia
Simon Miller
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Adobe Clay
Designers captured the warmth of this salt-of-the-earth, reddish-brown hue via swingy knit dresses (as seen at Simon Miller, pictured, and Gabriela Hearst), structured coats (Thakoon), and breezy handkerchief skirts (Ulla Johnson).
Alberta Ferretti / Photo: Alberto Maddaloni / idi.s
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Adobe Clay
Alberta Ferretti fall 2021
Greg Kessler for Gabriela Hearst / Thomas Concordia
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Adobe Clay
Norma Kamali
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Adobe Clay
PH5
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Adobe Clay
Ulla Johnson
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Adobe Clay
Victor Glemaud
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Adobe Clay
Thakoon
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Adobe Clay
Lela Rose
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Frosty Pink
Designers made a strong case for this delicate shade of pink: Wes Gordon of Carolina Herrera and Lela Rose (pictured) opted for structure, while Glenn Martens of Y/Project and Simone Rocha played up its femininity.
Carolina Herrera / Jonathan_Nesteruk
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Frosty Pink
Carolina Herrera fall 2021
Erdem
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Frosty Pink
Private Policy
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Frosty Pink
Simone Rocha
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Frosty Pink
Y/Project
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Frosty Pink
Molly Goddard / Ben Broomfield @photobenphoto
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Fiery Red
Red – the color of passion, love, and strength – has always been a dynamic shade, and while some designers amplified its power through angular shapes and rigid lines, like at Moschino, others opted for a sweeter take with tiers of tulle (Molly Goddard, pictured) and translucent silhouettes (Victoria Beckham).
Victoria Beckham
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Fiery Red
Adeam
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Fiery Red
Adam Lippes
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Fiery Red
Georgia Nerheim
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Fiery Red
Zero + Maria Cornejo
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Fiery Red
Zero + Maria Cornejo fall 2021
Marco Ovando
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Fiery Reed
Rosetta Getty
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Soft Gray
Quiet and subtle, this shade of gray always delivers relaxed sophistication, whether that’s through sweeping dresses at Rosetta Getty (pictured) and Emilia Wickstead, or sharp suiting at Proenza Schouler, Vetements, and Vivienne Westwood.
Vetements
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Soft Gray
Emilia Wickstead
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Soft Gray
Emilia Wickstead fall 2021
Proenza Schouler
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Soft Gray
Proenza Schouler fall 2021
Veronica Beard
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Soft Gray
Vivienne Westwood
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Soft Gray
Vivienne Westwood fall 2021
Atlein
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Root Beer Brown
This incredibly rich, deep shade of brown is inherently grounding. Use it to temper a brighter shade, or wear it on its own as a floor-sweeping dress (Rebecca Taylor) or flirty mini (Fendi and Cinq a Sept).
Pictured: Atlein fall 2021
Fendi
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Root Beer Brown
Cinq a Sept
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Root Beer Brown
Charlie Engman
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Root Beer Brown
Rebecca Taylor
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Root Beer Brown
Sandy Liang
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Root Beer Brown
The Row
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Root Beer Brown
Zimmermann
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Root Beer Brown
A.Potts
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
Like a jolt of energy, this electric yellow is the color we need after a dark year. And it’s just as versatile as any other hue, from sporty separates (Victor Glemaud and Claudia Li) to elegant shapes (Proenza Schouler, Prada, and 3.1 Phillip Lim).
Pictured: A.Potts fall 2021
Claudia Li
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
Tanya Taylor
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
Simon Miller
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
3.1 Phillip Lim
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
3.1 Phillip Lim fall 2021
Proenza Schouler
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
Proenza Schouler fall 2021
Victor Glemaud
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
Victor Glemaud fall 2021V
Prada
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
Jil Sander
Colour Trend Autumn 2021: Vibrant Yellow
